have I blogged about surfing? probably not, I don't blog anything much anymore.
3 1/2 days in Noosa, fired up by reading Tim Winton's Breath, which is MUCH better than Dirt Music and should have been longlisted for the Booker but hasn't...anyway, hurled myself into some waves with complete lack of style and grace. got out the back on the ocean beaches despite having no idea how to get back. achieved that by being knocked off and then bashed in the back of the head by my board...then started working harder on the Main Beach waves, small (but big enough for me), culminating in a final 1/2 hour surf in my favourite conditions, ie waist-deep water, which allows me to throw myself onto the board to get extra momentum.
I think I was out of practice. I need to keep at it, week after week, to develop the muscle memory, and keep the fear and wimpiness at cold water at bay.
Little Cove beach was being graced with some lovely smooth waves just before I left. I sat on the rocks eating my lunch before the minibus came to get me, watching the (real) surfers catch them, and squinting against the silver and blue glitter of the water, wishing I wasn't going home.
but it was good to be back with my little boy.